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Picnic at Crocodile Bridge Camp |
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Huts at Lower Sabie Camp |
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Spectacular view from Olifants Camp |
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They drive on the left, but if the elephant wants to drive on the right you let him. He was bigger than our van. |
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Huts at Oliphants Camp |
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Elephant crossing. I shot only low resolution animal pics but Connie had the "big gun" and will share her photos with us. |
We were up and ready to roll at 5 AM Friday however the driver had gotten back to his home in Swaziland later than expected the day before and decided to drive over to Maputo early in the morning. So he was able to get some sleep which was important however that resulted in him hitting the early morning traffic when he arrived in Maputo which made him late getting to the Seminary. We got away a little after 8 AM and headed west to Swaziland on our way to Kruger National Park. The Restricks went with us on this excursion so they drove their truck and the Vegas road along with them. The other 8 of us boarder the 16 passenger van with our luggage in tow. Our driver Mongi is a young Swazi Nazarene gentlemen who has been driving for this touring company for about 5 years.
The traffic in the city was not too bad by that time of day and soon we were out in the countryside, making good time. We drove for several hours to get to the border. Since our drive was a Swazi we needed to enter into South Africa from Swaziland. So we drove crossing any national border can be a little intimidating but is mostly just a slow bureaucratic process. First you stop at a military check point to have your driver’s papers checked and to have your cabin and trailer checked for anything suspicious. The officer that opened the slider on the van to talk to us quickly latched on to the Nazarene connection. He was very familiar with the large Nazarene church in Manzini and had visited there a couple of years before. Someone asked him how he had been treated. He said something to the effect…”well, when God is present it is always good.” He gave us a smile wished us well and closed the door to send us on. On to the border that is to have all our passports checked. This involves everyone going into the building that looks much like a post office to have someone stamp our passport and make sure the drivers list matches the people coming through the checkpoint. All this takes place on the Mozambique side of the fence. Then it is back on the bus to cross through the border only to then stop again immediately on the other side to go into the Swazi border office to have our passports stamped into the county.
After all this passport stamping it was back on the bus to go up the road a few feet to have the driver’s papers checked, and the vehicle lightly inspected by the Swazi border patrol. Then it was on the road again. Swaziland is a beautiful mountainous country. The cooler temperatures were welcome, and so was the beautiful hilly countryside. We drove right past Southern Africa Nazarene College, where many on this team stayed when they were here a number of years ago building a church in memory of John Linson. In fact not long after passing the college we passed within eye shot of the church they built. The shiny metal roof over the red brick structure made it stand out in the green countryside.
About an hour later we made it to the northern border of Swaziland and went through the border crossing with the double passport check and inspection once again, only this time with the Swazi border station on one side and the South African border station on the other. Once in South Africa we drove straight north headed for the Crocodile Bridge Gate, the Southern entrance to Kruger. The park is the size of the state of Massachusetts.
Once we were through the Jurassic Park style gate and paid our park entrance fees we crossed the Crocodile Bridge and immediately started seeing big game, and as one might guess, a crocodile below the bridge was the first thing we spotted. Right after the entrance to the park we stopped at a campground and had a picnic lunch. It was 2 PM by the time we stopped to eat. The BLT sandwiches were a welcome meal since most of us had breakfast between 4 and 5 AM. After lunch and some light shopping in the souvenirs shop we were back out into the wild to look for animals and pace ourselves to make it to the Lower Sabie Camp by dark when the gates close for the night. All the camps in the park and all the entry/exit gates to the park open about 5:30 AM and close about 6:30PM. Basically that the gates are only open from sun up to sun down. If someone is not where they need to be by then….tough. So it was very important to make it to the camp at Lower Sabie before the gates close for the night. It is only 40 kilometers from the Crocodile Bridge to Lower Sabie Camp, so we were in good shape and took our time stopping to take a lot of pictures of animals along the way. I believe that first afternoon we saw a variety of animals including: rhino, elephant, hippo, giraffe, water buffalo, baboon, monkey, warthog, kudu (a type of deer), zebra, impala, crocodile, vulture, and a variety of other deer like creatures (lion fast food), and a variety of beautiful birds including some beautiful metallic blue birds that were aggressive enough to try and steal sandwiches right off the table at picnic areas. Over the next couple of days we would add ostrich and lion to the list of creatures we saw. Unfortunately we never saw any cheetahs or leopards.
We stayed at a different park each night and ate in the park restaurant each night and for breakfast the next morning. Each camp was unique but the hut style was pretty common across the camps. The accommodations where nice. We stayed in round adobe/plaster style huts with thick grass roofs. Though that may sound rustic, they were very nice. Most of them had full baths in them with running hot and cold water. All of them had air conditioners and a big ceiling fan handing down from the peak of the cone shaped grass roof. Most cabins even had a front porch. Many porches were screened in and had a refrigerator, sink and kitchen cabinets, and a small table and a couple chairs. I can safely say these were the nicest grass huts I have ever stayed in.
Dinner at each camp was the local cuisine, which tended to include chicken and a type of sausage or roast meat that comes from the kudu. It is sort of like venison. It is very lean and tastes more like beef than deer to me. It was usually served with a tomato and onion relish that really made the flavor come to life. The meat was accompanied with white rice or another white substance that looks like mashed potatoes but has the texture of spray in foam insulation and had no taste. Fresh vegetables and fruit were always there to complete the menu.
After the Lower Sabie Camp, which overlooks the Sabie River, we spent Saturday driving and shooting (pictures only of course) our way north 153 K to my favorite camp, Olifants. Along the way there, at lunch time on Saturday we met up with the Bauza’s at the Satara Camp. They were staying at a different camp but it was good to see them one last time.
Olifants is a camp situated high up on a bluff overlooking the Olifants River. There is no way with pictures or words to do justice to the view from up there. Words or pictures cannot capture the raw beauty as we could see for incredible distances in all directions and see nothing but the wild untamed wilderness of Africa. From the observation area and the camp restaurant we could see the rushing water in the river below and hear its muted roar from high above. The occasional animal or vulture would pass in and out of view reminding us of the wild world that began just on the other side of the electric fence surrounding the camp. We were fortunate enough to see sunset and sunrise from this vantage and it is a view that I will never forget.
Each night after dinner, in the pitch dark of the Africa night, several of us would walk out away from the dim lights of the camp to gaze at the stars. The stars were so bright that even at dinner we could see the stars through the tree branches over head. I can honestly say I have never seen the stars so bright. The first night the Restricks encouraged us to come out and see the stars and once my eyes adjusted to the dark I was stunned by the view. I have never seen the Milky Way so clear and bright straight across the sky from North to South. I honestly did not know it was possible to see the Milky Way so bright and clear with the naked eye. Being this far south on the globe, the Southern Cross shines unmistakably in the southern sky as does Orion’s belt in the northern sky. The brightest stars truly twinkled in the sky. Every night I looked up at this amazingly beautiful spectacle and could only thing, “Wow! God you do good work!” Seeing the massive wilderness and the massive sea of stars over head every night was humbling yet inspiring. Humbling because it drives home just how small and helpless I really am, but it was inspiring because it also burned into my minds how big and majestic is my God. And to think he made us, cares for us and wants to call us His children.
Sunday we traveled from Olifants southwest the 156K to Skukuza Camp, stopping for lunch at Satara Camp. Most of us followed the Restricks’ lead and had kudu foot long sausage sandwiches for lunch. These were met with mixed reviews. Many of us liked them, especially once we put the tomato and onion relish on top. It was a sort of South African Coney dog. After more animal sightseeing we arrived at Skuzuza where we quickly unpacked the bags the Restricks had been hauling for us in their truck. Then we had to bid them farewell so they could make a dash for the nearest park gate and get back out to civilization before the park gates closed. They were both due back in Maputo to resume their normal Seminary life Monday morning. Now we were down to our original 10 team members. We had dinner under the stars by the river and did our final shopping, trying to get rid of Rands as best we could before our journey home.
All of us went to bed by aout 8 PM Sunday night because 4AM was the wakeup bell since we aimed to leave Skukuza shortly after 5AM. Amazingly we were loaded in the van and at the camp gate shortly after 5AM. As soon as the gate opened at 5:30, we were out into the wild and racing for the Paul Kruger Park exit to head toward the Johannesburg, South Africa airport. Thus began the 42 hour marathon journey home. The trek across this northern part of South Africa was beautiful. The hills and mountains and the colors of SA are unique. It is hard to describe it but there is something different and majestic about the shape of the hills and colors of this region. We moved quickly as we had a 5-6 hour drive to airport and we were supposed to check in about 11 AM for our 1:55PM flight. Our driver Mongi made good time ad got us there safe and sound. We were a little worried about the little trailer’s tires. The trailer we had pulled all the way from Maputo contained our large bags and tubs. We had a flat tire in the park a couple days before so we were already on the only spare Mongi had, and it was bald. However going as fast as we went the trailer tires rarely touched the ground. In fact at a gas stop, Don felt the tires and reported the tiny trailer tires were cooler than the van tires. They don’t get very hot if they don’t touch the ground.
We arrived at the airport about 11:15AM and began what ended up being about a 2 hour process to check in 10 people and 18 check bags. I have never figured out why it takes so long for groups to check in but that is the way it is. Then we all had to go through the security screening, and have someone inspect our passports before we could go to our gate. We had just enough time left to eat some overpriced airport food and head for our plane. The first leg of the flying was a 6 hour flight on an Ethiopian Air 757 destined for Addis Ababa, Ethiopia. Several of us were asleep before the plane door was even closed. It had already been a long day and it was only 2 PM. We were a little concerned about our next stop. Addis Ababa airport had been a confusing mess in the daylight two weeks ago. We did not know what to expect when we had to negotiate this airport in the dark. Fortunately this tour through the airport was not nearly as confusing as before. We deplaned and bused to the terminal to go inside and go through security screening again before being bused to our 777 for the long haul back to DC via Rome.
Fortunately the video players in this 777 were working properly so we were all able to entertain ourselves on this massive flight back to the US. We would spend 18 hours on this plane. The flight time to Rome was about 6 and a half hours. We sat in the plane during an hour and a half refueling and cleaning in Rome, then we flew over 10 more hours to get to DC. We were all very glad to get off that plane Tuesday morning. By this point we had gotten back all the time zone hours we had forfeited a couple weeks before. So though it was about 7:30AM in DC (and Ohio), it felt much more like mid afternoon to us. And the light and limited sleep of the past 23 hours of flying was making us weary.
Of course the reward for surviving nearly 23 hours of flying was to get to go inside and stand in line in US Customs. After over an hour in this line, we had to recollect all our luggage, push it about 200 feet through the Customs checkpoint and dump it all again on the domestic flight side of the room. Then we stood in line to get our boarding passes to Columbus. Then we stood in line to get through security for the umpteenth but final time. Finally we were free to go to our last gate, relax over a meal, and make phone calls home while we waited for our short midday flight on to Columbus. After the long plane rides, this little 78 minute flight from DC to Columbus seemed like a breeze and we arrived home on time and happy to be greeted by the bright sunshine. We were dreading coming home to snow, ice and cold, so we were very happy to see sunshine in Ohio on Tuesday.
Thanks for your prayers and noted across the past few weeks. The project was a success, there is money and people in place to take the project the next step of the way. The whole team came home safe and sound. We were privileged to represent you all as we worked and worshiped side by side with our brothers and sisters in Africa!